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February 5, 2011
My First Short Trip to Tokyo (Day 1-2)
Flower decorations at Andon Ryokan - trendy yet traditional
Tokyo is widely known as "the culinary captial of the world" after Michelin Guide announced its starred restaurants in 2007 when Tokyo outshined Paris in terms of the number of stars awarded. In 2010, 234 restaurants in Tokyo received Michelin star(s) and 11 received three stars, assuring Tokyo as the center of the gastronomical world. (vs. Paris has 10 three-starred restaurants and New York has 5 three-starred restaurants from 2010 Michelin Guide).
It was really exciting to visit Tokyo... specially after attending the culinary school and seven-months internships in restaurant kitchens.
First, I tried to visit some high-end Japanese restaurants, but after a few calls to Tokyo, I found out that most of the restaurants are closed during the first week of January or are fully booked.
At first, it was a little dissapointing not being able to visit world-class restaurants during my first visit to Tokyo, but on the other hand, it assures me that I will visit the city again! And, most of my friends who have been in the city convinced me that literally any restaurants in Tokyo are really good --- and they were!
Day 1
Place: Andon Ryokan
Foods: None
I stayed at Andon Ryokan during the trip (*Ryokan means traditional Japanese inn.) Andon Ryokan, found from Travel Section on the New York Times website, is not a traditional ryokan, but has very modern, cozy and tiny(!!!) rooms welcoming you. Oh! by the way, you can see me introducing Andon Ryokan to future Korean travelers from the link on its website, andon.co.jp. Click Korean flag on top right, or you can visit the YouTube link directly.
The original plan was to visit Ginza and have tempura and beer for the first night, but... as expected, I just fell asleep and couldn't get out of my bed.
Day 2
Place: Tsukiji, Shibuya, Harajuku
Foods: Daiwa Sushi & Jangara Ramen
Tsukiji Central Fish Market is where you can visit the world's largest tuna auction. Unfortunately, the auction place was closed to tourists until late January, and we couldn't have the opportunity to see the auction. We wandered around the fish market, watching butchered tuna, fresh fishes, clams, oysters... and all sorts of seafoods.
After the visit to fish market, we headed to Daiwa Sushi (大和寿司, opens 5am-1:30pm, Mon-Sat) located in the restaurant area in the market.
According to Lonely Planet,
"Waits of over one hour are commonplace at Tsukiji's most famous sushi bar, but it's all worth it once you're past the noren(curtains) and your first piece of sushi hits the counter".
Oh.... SO TRUE! The sushi were the best that I ever had and it hurts your wallet only $35 for the set menu which includes seven nigiri, two makis and a miso soup. And, of course, there is no tax or tips to be added!
After the great great lunch at Daiwa Sushi, we passed through the "Outer Market" - If Tsukiji Central Fish Market is more geared for wholesale customers and focused on seafoods, Outer Market is for retail customers and sells various foods and goods, including vegetables, fruits, sea foods and even pretty Japanese dishes & chopsticks. The market also have lots of foodstands where you can enjoy noodles to rice bowls.
Entrance to "Outer Market (Jogai Shijo)".
Various pickled vegetables.
Fresh wasabis sold from 500 yen to 1,800 yen!
One of many popular foodstands.
In the afternoon, we visited Shibuya... it was too cold outside and we spent most of the time in a shopping mall called "Tokyu Hands" - www.tokyu-hands.co.jp. Tokyu Hands is a department store which is... a kind of combination of Macy's, Ikea, Home Depot, Staples, RadioShack and some others. Basically, it sells everything except fresh foods. ;)
Hmm... Tokyu Hands even sells a portable toilet!
Night view at the famous Shibuya crossing.
At night, we headed to Harajuku, where you can meet the young hipsters in Tokyo. The main reason to Harajuku was to have a hot bowl of Japanese Ramen. Jangara Ramen (www.kyusyujangara.co.jp) has several stores in Tokyo and it is famous for its ramens served in tonkotsu broth made from pork bones.
Menus on the bar - actually you need to order ramen at the front desk where a cashier is, and the cashier will give you a token which you need to give to the server at the bar.
Ok... I ruined the presentation again before taking a picture - I couldn't resist!
Busy and vibrant kitchen staffs... who remind me of Andrew and Apphia, my dear friends working at Ippudo NYC. ;)
On our way back to the subway station, we found a crêpe station which sells tons of crêpes --- actually, these crêpe houses are very commonly found in Tokyo.
The end of our second day in Tokyo... taking a picture in front of Harajuku station.
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